Journal

The Long Lunch, Revived

Somewhere along the way we decided lunch should be efficient. This is a mistake. The long lunch, the kind that begins at one and releases you, blinking, into the late afternoon, is one of life’s great luxuries, and London is quietly brilliant at it.

An Italian is the natural home of the form, and our guide to the best Italian restaurants in London is full of candidates. For grander rooms, our pick of the best restaurants in Mayfair will see you right.

Cancel the afternoon. You will not regret it.