Journal

The Pre-Theatre Dinner, Reconsidered

The pre-theatre dinner has a bad reputation, and unfairly so. Done well, it is a small art: a kitchen that understands the clock, a menu built for the occasion, a glass of something to set the evening going. The trick is choosing the right room.

The streets around the West End are full of them, and our guide to Covent Garden and Soho point you to the best. Tell them you have a curtain to catch and let them do the rest.

Pudding can wait for the interval, or for afterwards.