Aqua Shard

Views settle most arguments in London dining, and thirty one floors above St Thomas Street, Aqua Shard has one of the best in the city, a full sweep from the Thames to the skyline beyond without a single competing restaurant at the same height. The dining room, with its three storey atrium bar attached, makes the most of the glass with a design that stays out of the view’s way rather than competing with it.

The kitchen works in modern British territory, built around seasonal produce and classic technique rather than anything showy. A set lunch menu offers reasonable value relative to the location, while the evening tasting option, a scenic selection paired with a glass of champagne for window tables, pushes towards the top of what most people would spend on dinner in London.

Afternoon tea here has become almost as popular as dinner, served with the same view and a rotating list of themed menus through the year. Breakfast is quieter and arguably the best time to get a window seat without booking months out. The wine list, curated to match the modern British menu, includes a strong selection by the glass, useful given how many diners are there primarily for a single course and the view rather than a full tasting menu.

Service is slick and well drilled, handling the volume of tourists and special occasion bookings without losing pace, though it can feel more efficient than warm on a busy night.

The honest caveat, and it comes up review after review, is that the cooking does not always match the setting. Portions have been criticised as small for the price, and dishes can feel like an afterthought next to the spectacle outside the window. Go for the view and the occasion, keep expectations for the food itself realistic, and book a window table well in advance or the whole point of coming is lost.