Onsu Bakery

Onsu opened on Dean Street in January 2026, the solo project of Michael Kwan, formerly executive pastry chef at the Dorchester with stints at Laduree, Hakkasan and the Fat Duck behind him, plus a UK Sugar Championships win in 2016 that hints at the technical bent behind the counter. It’s a tightly run, industrially styled space built around a visible assembly line rather than a traditional bakery counter, moving fast: six staff working in view of the queue, plating and boxing pastries at pace.

The signature item is a wagyu curry bun, pulled hot from the oven, alongside black truffle toast, seaweed croissants and a salted egg yolk mille feuille that lean into an Asian European hybrid rather than a standard patisserie list. Drinks include matcha and a viral minus 86 degree ube latte, served from glasses pulled straight out of a freezer, which has done plenty of the marketing on its own and shows up constantly on social media.

Despite the queue outside, turnover is quick, and several reviewers note that most customers are grabbing takeaway boxes rather than fighting for the limited seating, so finding a table is less of a battle than the line suggests. That efficiency is clearly deliberate, closer to a production line than a cafe to sit and read in, black and chrome throughout rather than warm or homely.

Because it opened so recently, consistency across visits is still being established, and as with any bakery running at this pace, timing matters: the more distinctive items sell out first, and a late afternoon visit means settling for whatever’s left rather than the wagyu bun everyone’s talking about.

For anyone in Soho chasing a specific viral pastry rather than a coffee shop to linger in, Onsu delivers exactly that, efficiently and without much ceremony.