Mountain

Mountain is Tomos Parry’s follow-up to Brat, and it answers the obvious question of what he would do with a bigger room and a central address. It opened on Beak Street in Soho in July 2023 and took a Michelin star in the guide that followed.

The idea is mar y montana, the Spanish sea-and-hillside pairing, filtered through the Balearics and through Parry’s own background in Anglesey. In practice that means fire again, as at Brat, but with a broader range: shellfish and mountain meats on the same menu, cooked over wood, with more Mediterranean weight than the Basque focus of the older restaurant.

The room is the biggest difference. Brat is small and cramped in a way that suits it. Mountain is open, high and busy, with a long counter looking into the kitchen and a level of noise that is part of the appeal. It is a better room for a group and a worse one for a quiet conversation.

Prices are serious, and the bill climbs quickly if you order across the whole menu, which is the temptation.

Our verdict: the best fire cooking in central London, and easier to book than Brat. Sit at the counter if you can.

Go if: you loved Brat and want the same cooking with more room. Skip if: you want somewhere quiet.

Book the counter. Beak Street, Soho.