Dishoom

Queues form outside 7 Boundary Street before the doors even open, and that tells you most of what you need to know about Dishoom Shoreditch. This is the branch that started the group’s expansion beyond Covent Garden, modelled on the Irani cafes that once dotted Bombay, all chequered floors, ceiling fans and framed black and white photographs. It is the least polished of the Dishoom sites and, for many regulars, still the best.

The bacon naan roll, cured for 36 hours and served with a chilli tomato jam, has become something of a cult breakfast order, though the kitchen’s real strength is the House Black Daal, simmered overnight for a smoky depth that no quick version manages. Chicken ruby, a Bombay take on butter chicken, and the gunpowder potatoes with their sharp, spiced crunch, are the two dishes most tables end up ordering whether they meant to or not.

Service is quick and warm without being rushed, which matters given how many covers turn over on a Friday night. The room itself has real character, low lit, slightly worn at the edges in a way that feels intentional, and loud enough that conversation stays private even when packed. It suits big groups and solo diners at the counter equally well.

Prices remain reasonable for the quality, most mains sitting between twelve and eighteen pounds, which is part of why the queue never really goes away. Walk ins are not turned away but expect to wait, especially at weekend brunch, and the no reservations policy for smaller groups can test patience on a cold evening.

The honest caveat is that Dishoom’s popularity has made it a victim of its own success. Some regulars complain the newer branches feel formulaic, and Shoreditch, while still charming, gets frantic at peak times in a way that undercuts the leisurely cafe atmosphere the group is going for. Go at an off hour if you can, and it remains one of London’s most reliably good meals for the money.